Selected major publications

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Rafał Ostrowski

Morphodynamics of a multi-bar coastal zone.

editor: IBW PAN

ISBN: 83-85708-64-2

year: 2004

language: EN

Summary: The book comprises the description and experimental verification of a new mathematical model of sediment motion on a multi-bar shore profile and the variability of this profile. In the model, accuracy in determination of resultant sediment transport at each location of the shore profile plays a key role in the description of coastal morphodynamics. The computed sediment transport rates depend on correctness of theoretical representation of wave transformation on a sloped (multi-bar) sea bed, as well as on proper modelling of wave-induced currents.
In the monograph, wave-current interactions in the nearbed layer give rise to resultant sediment transport rate, which is principally dependent on a very delicate imbalance between an onshore flow caused by vertical asymmetry of wave shape and the wave-driven return current directed offshore. An attempt has been undertaken to prove the fundamental thesis of the present work, according to which the cross-shore sediment transport rate, resulting from wave asymmetry, is modified quantitatively and even qualitatively (sediment motion opposite to wave propagation) by influence of the offshore directed undertow.
The theoretical results have been verified against the experimental data from literature, the laboratory data collected in IBW PAN wave flume and the field data registered at the Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo. A part of the book is devoted to solution of practical problems encountered in coastal engineering. The present monograph shows that a big progress has been achieved in the realm of coastal dynamics. This progress indicates the directions of further research.


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Zbigniew Pruszak

Akweny morskie: zarys procesów fizycznych i inżynierii środowiska.

editor: IBW PAN

ISBN: 83-85708-57-X

year: 2003

language: PL

Summary: The book synthetically presents state-of-the-art knowledge related to selected processes occurring in seas and oceans and to various coastal engineering issues. Linking the chosen problems of oceanography and coastal engineering, the book may serve as a source of basic information on marine environment, attractive for vast groups of recipients. The target group includes academicians, companies working in that area, as well as individuals willing to learn about the surrounding nature. The book is not aimed at presentation of detailed analytical problems or derivation of equations, but is intended to describe physical processes in marine environments at a certain level of generality. Presenting physical phenomena in aqueous milieu attention is paid to current challenges and threats to be faced nowadays. The book consists of the twelve chapters, of which first six are related to physical marine processes, next five deal with environmental condition of marine areas including threats of adverse human impacts and their remedies, the last one describes the currently observed climate change linked to the greenhouse effect and signalizes the resulting threats to coasts. Since coastal regions are most closely related to human life and activity, a vast part of the book was devoted to the coastal regions of seas and oceans.


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Grzegorz Różyński

Coastal nearshore morphology in terms of large data sets.

editor: IBW PAN

ISBN: 83-85708-51-0

year: 2003

language: EN

Summary: State-of-the-art techniques of data-driven analysis of large data sets, reflecting morphological variability of coastal nearshore seabed topography and shoreline evolution are presented in the book. They are aimed at extraction of key spatial and temporal patterns, which identify and describe physical processes and phenomena in studied coastal segments. The patterns include effects of all interactions and feedbacks amongst various forcings and seabed response and being their unbiased mapping they allow for in-depth investigations of main components that shape morphological evolution of the studied areas. These methods were applied to large morphological data sets collected at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station at Lubiatowo over many years. Canonical correlation analysis (CCA) was used to assess impacts of the evolution of outer bars onto the variability of inner bars. Singular spectrum analysis (SSA) was employed to extract forced and chaotic elements of shoreline evolution. Principal oscillation patterns (POP) were utilized to build a data-driven model of nearshore bed topography evolution and a model of evolution of shoreline change trends. The role of synergy, resulting from the analysis of one data set with various methods was highlighted, which points to an optimum strategy of intensive statistical investigations of coastal data. Moreover, several variants of empirical orthogonal functions (EOF), applied previously to many analyses of large data sets, were also described. Hence, the book may serve as a manual on data intensive statistical modelling in coastal engineering.

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Marek Szmytkiewicz

Prądy pochodzenia falowego w morskiej strefie brzegowej.

editor: IBW PAN

ISBN: 83-85708-45-6

year: 2002

language: PL

Summary: The book presents the description of mechanisms of generation of wave-driven currents, i.e. the currents induced by breaking waves, the energy of which is partly transmitted to the steady flow. In the description, particular attention has been paid to longshore currents and return currents, constituting two systems of flows which fundamentally control sediment transport rates, evolution of the cross-shore profile and the shoreline. As a result of studies and analyses, the Author presents his mathematical models of wave-driven currents and complete blocks of the Author`s numerical programs. Comparison between calculated and measured wave heights and flow velocities show good compliance between the theory and experiments, independently of sea bed shape, for both short waves at the Baltic and ocean long waves.. These numerical programs, together with other computational blocks, they constitute a global model called SAND94. The model in a complex way treats the entire sequence of physical processes occurring in the coastal zone, starting from prediction of wind waves, through wave transformation and generation of the currents, to sediment motion and related shore evolution. The model SAND94 have been compared with three similar, world famous numerical packages, namely the American-Swedish GENESIS, the Danish LITPACK and the Dutch UNIBEST. The computations by these models in various time - spatial scales for shoreline at Władysławowo show that the results by SAND94 are at least such accurate as the output by the other considered models.


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Leszek M. Kaczmarek

Moveable sea bed boundary layer and mechanics of sediment transport.

editor: IBW PAN

ISBN: 83-85708-35-9

year: 1999

language: EN

Summary: The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes inside the near-bed layer and to provide their mathematical description. The purpose of the present study is to describe both the basic hydrodynamics of the bed boundary layer flow and the basic sediment transport mechanisms which are important for the construction of a mathematical model for sediment transport in coastal areas. In order to address both of these objectives, the treatment of major topics is given in two main parts. In the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory of non-moveable (without sediment) bed boundary layer is described. The second part subsequently deals with moveable bed boundary layer theory and mechanics of sediment transport. Much effort is concentrated on the sediment-flow interaction, such as interaction forces between the sediment and the fluid, and intergranular stresses between the sediment particles. The manner of modelling the sediment-flow interaction is proposed, in which the near-bed flow is divided into three layers. The concept of the momentum transfer from oscillatory flow to the bed through the distinguished layers is postulated and the mathematical models of bedload and contact load layers are presented. The contact load layer is identified as the transition zone between the outer region (suspension layer) and bedload layer. Practical problems of sedimentation in navigable channels of Łeba and Władysławowo harbours are proposed to be solved by the use of the present bedload and contact load layer models. These applications demonstrate their usefulness in solving practical problems.


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Zbigniew Pruszak

Dynamika brzegu i dna morskiego.

editor: IBW PAN

ISBN: 83-85708-28-6

year: 1998

language: PL

Summary: The book presents up-to-data knowledge on dynamics of sea shore and bed, with particular focus on sediment transport and morphodynamics of a coast with its basic bed forms, as well as on some related problems (wave motion, currents, bed boundary layer etc.). The theme of the book mostly concerns the open natural sea shores and refers to tideless seas, such as the Baltic. The present monography is mainly addressed to students and researchers of various specialities, as well as to executive offices and institutions dealing with the problems of dynamics of shore and coastal regions. Being addressed to a wide group of readers, the manual presents both classical, frequently fundamental, mechanisms of discussed phenomena and the review of the latest scientific achievements and investigations. Because of the interdisciplinary contents of the book, the presentation of some tasks is concise, supplemented with the references to relevant more detailed items. Since the monography should assist Polish readers, Polish achievements are more pronounced in some sections and regional features of presented phenomena are taken into account (south Baltic shores).


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Pilarczyk K. W., Zeidler R. B.

Offshore breakwaters and shore evolution control.

editor: A.A. Balkema

ISBN: 90-5410-627-1

year: 1996

language: EN

Summary: No description


Most of the books listed above can be ordered. For more information contact here: wydawnictwo(at)ibwpan(dot)gda(dot)pl